On occasion, a cat we are fostering may have a behavioral problem. When this occurs, we do our best to put an end to it before the cat ever goes up for adoption. But what if this old habit resurfaces after they move into their new home? Or what if they develop a new, undesired tendency?
When we rescue a cat, we agree to a lifelong commitment to them and are always available to help when we can. This section was developed to help you find the answers you need as soon as you need them. Listed below are the most common problems we see with cats and basic instructions on how to correct them.
*Jumping on counters, tables, and other undesired areas. Providing your cat with vertical space is almost as important as allowing them room to wander. Cats love to find areas that are high above the ground, but sometimes they must be taught where. Try to get your cat a cat tower/condo or have a designated area where jumping is allowed. How to fix it: Never yell at your cat, this is not an effective method and can lead to difficult problems. Instead, tell the cat “No” and gently lift them from the surface you wish to remove them from and set them on the floor. After a few seconds, praise them and/or give them a treat. Cats respond best to rewards, not discipline. Your kitty will understand they’re not allowed somewhere if they’re consistently being removed from that area and they will quickly associate the praise/treats with where you want them to be. To make this correction go faster, you can line the surface with double-sided tape or spray an orange scented air freshener on the area. Never spray your cat with this, it is an irritant and may send you on a trip to the vet or stuck cleaning up urine from an angry cat.
*Scratching furniture or other areas not designed for this. A cat must scratch to clean their nails and remove the old sheath. Your cat won’t know where to scratch until you show them, so buy them a scratching post and train them how to use it. When you provide your cat with something they can scratch, it will help to eliminate problem scratching. Never resort to declawing. This is incredibly painful, can cause permanent nerve damage, get infected, or be psychologically damaging. (Learn more in our Why Not To Declaw section.) Scratching problems can be fixed without mutilation. How to fix it: Depending on if your cat prefers to scratch the carpet or an upright object will determine what type of scratching post you’ll need to buy. Like jumping, this can be fixed by applying trace amounts of an orange scented air freshener. If your cat likes to scratch furniture or carpet, please do a spot test so as not to stain the area. You can also apply double-sided tape to the area to keep their paws away from it. If you see your cat eying their favorite scratching area, try to distract them or call them over to their designated scratching post. For those moments you catch kitty in the unwanted act, gently remove them and place them at their new scratching post. You can show them how to scratch it by giving them a demonstration or by gentle rubbing their paws against it, then praising them for that behavior. You can also encourage them to dig into it by sprinkling the post with catnip or a cat-friendly powdered soup base (this means NO onions or garlic). Never spray your cat with a citrus scent or yell at them for this behavior. Both negative respondents can lead to worse problems.
*Trying to get outside. Many people think cats, like dogs, should be allowed to go outside. That they won’t get enough stimulation indoors and should be allowed to roam. Never lose sight of the fact that cats are not dogs and aside from basic care, they have few similarities. Cats are content to live indoors their entire life and have no desire to roam as a dog would. It is only through gradual steps that an indoor cat will make it beyond their own yard, but when they do work up the nerve, it can be the last steps they ever take. Poisonous plants, unsocialized dogs, and even slow-moving vehicles can end a cat’s life before you even know they’re missing. Don’t let their meowing at the back door fool you, your cat is perfectly happy inside. How to fix it: Sure, cats can get bored having the same routine every day, but that’s no reason they should extend their territory. Instead, offer them something to do. Buy them that new toy you’ve been thinking about or pull out some of their old, forgotten ones. Toss out a cardboard box or a paper bag for them to play in. What we like to do when we want to keep a cat occupied is throw a blanket over a chair. Depending on the cat, it can keep them entertained for some time. Cats have a short attention span when you introduce play. They will go after what is moving and what they can hide in and quit caring about the outside world they can’t get to. The main concerns with cats wanting to go out is that they either scratch at the floor or molding or they slip out when you’re not watching. The quick fix to both of these problems is to make the area around the door uninviting. Certain textures can ward off those little paws, creating something of a force field in front of your door. Aluminum foil, for instance, will turn most cats away with it’s shimmer and crinkle. Double-sided tape is also very affective, though both will need to be replaced in high traffic areas. Luckily, this is not a permanent addition. You only need to keep something there long enough for your cat to lose interest, generally being one or two weeks.
*Biting and scratching during play. When a cat or kitten plays too rough, it is because they were removed from their mother and litter mates too early. Kittens learn through playing with their litter mates what is too rough. If they were adopted out before 10-12 weeks, they never learned and this behavior stretches into adulthood. How to fix it: When you are playing with your cat and they use their claws or mouths, you can correct this the same way their litter mates would. Give out a high-pitched cry and walk away from them. A cat will soon learn they are hurting you and ending play time is the most effective way to curb this behavior.
*Biting or scratching when they’re not playing (also, hissing or growling). Because a cat can’t talk and tell you they need some space or that they’re upset about something, they have to rely on what they can do. Biting and scratching is just a way of saying, “Don’t touch me right now.” Biting, scratching, hissing, and growling all occur when something is bothering the cat. Usually, this isn’t meant to be directed at you, but you just happen to be there. Very few cats are aggressive. By nature, a cat is non-confrontational. However, caution should be used if you don’t know how the cat will react. How to fix it: Whenever a cat shows these signs that they are upset, you should give them their personal space until they can relax. Give the cat about 3-5 feet, but don’t walk away unless you honestly feel threatened. Sit down with your side to the cat and speaking softly to them, try to get them to come to you. Avoid eye contact, but make yourself welcoming. When the cat finally does approach you, whatever they were upset about in the first place will be a thing of the past. Praise the cat when they’re in a better mood. If this is a common problem with your cat, please seek the advice of a professional. Never try to correct this yourself, yell at the cat, or try to provoke them to leave when they’re irritated. Doing any of these can worsen the existing problem or create new ones.
*Aggression towards other cats. Cats are territorial and most do not take kindly to seeing a new cat in or around their home. This can create problems between the two cats or even create a problem with misdirected aggression, causing the cat to lash out at others. How to fix it: If you have brought a new cat into your home, please read our New Cat Care Sheet for tips on making this adjustment go smoother. How to fix it for cats who got along until just recently: If your cats use to be best friends or at least just tolerated each other and suddenly they’re acting aggressive towards each other, you will have to narrow down the possibilities. First and foremost, schedule a vet appointment for the aggressor. When you see an alteration in your cat’s personality, many times it signifies something is wrong with them inside. A sick or injured cat will try not to show any ailments because this is a weakness, but they may begin to behave aggressively towards others. If your cat checks out with a clean bill of health, it is likely something happened you were unaware of that startled your cat. Place the aggressor in a separate room, allowing a few days for them to calm down. When your cat appears relaxed, start re-introducing your cats again using our New Cat Care Sheet. How to fix it when the other cat is outside: When an indoor cat is aware of another cat lurking outside their home, they can get very upset. They see the other cat, they don’t like the other cat, but they can’t get to that cat. It can be very frustrating for them and lead to a bigger problem. Immediately put your cat in a separate room where they are unable to see the cat outside, giving them a few days to relax. While your cat is tucked safely away, try to find out where the other cat came from. Hopefully it was a neighbors indoor cat that accidentally got out. If this cat is a regular, block off any doors or windows your cat could see the other cat from. Around your yard, use a citrus scent to keep the other cat from hanging around your property. You may have to re-apply every few days or after rain, but within two weeks your point should be made. Clean up any debris in your yard that could pose as a safe haven for other cats and whatever you do, do not feed the cats outside.
*Won’t use the litter box. Almost instinctively, cats go for the litter box when nature calls. However, there are instances when those instincts fail them and it is important to know why before we try to correct it. Above all, please schedule a vet appointment to ensure this is not because of health issues. One of the most common reasons for a cat to quit using their litter box is illness. A cat’s immune system is nearly as touchy as their nervous system, and the two have underlying connections. When a cat is introduced to a new stimuli, such as moving into a new home, meeting a new cat, or any sudden changes, they will usually feel a lot of stress. This stress can in turn create an infection, usually in their urinary tracks, bladders, or kidneys. When a cat has any such infection, they can begin to associate their litter box with the pain and wanting to relieve that pain, will begin to go outside of the box. By taking your cat to the vet, you will either be given a prescription of antibiotics or you will be able to rule out the medical end. If your cat is defecating outside of the box, this is an even bigger sign of illness and you must see a vet immediately. No matter what the case is, please clean the affected areas with an enzymatic cleaner. Regular cleaners do not break up the urine and even though you may not smell them, your cats will. I know it’s irritating, but never, ever yell at or strike your cat. This will create more problems. How to fix it if it’s not a medical problem: If your cat has been to vet and checked out healthy, you must begin to find another reason for the sudden disturbance of their bathroom behavior. The first thing you should become aware of are any changes in the cat’s normal routine. Locate a reason for stress because along with illness, stress is the most common culprit. Has anything recently occurred in your cat’s life that could be bothering them? Put kitty in their own room for a few days to relax and keep an eye out for a UTI, bladder, or kidney infection. Once you have determined what was creating the stress, you can begin to socialize your cat to it. Whatever it is, don’t force your cat to accept it. Go slowly and stop when kitty tells you to stop. How to fix it if the cat is marking their territory: Remove the cat from the area and show them their litter box. Then transport your cat to a room that they can stay in by themselves for a few days to calm down. Please read the section above titled: “Aggression towards other cats.” To keep your cat from continuing to mark these areas, clean them with an enzymatic cleaner and lay down strips of foil to prevent them from wanting to walk there. Other reasons and ways to fix them: If your cat is left to go in a dirty box, many cats will quit using it altogether. A household with one or two cats will need a single litter box cleaned daily, more cats may require multiple scoopings throughout the day. We have even heard of cats who demand their box be cleaned after each use, though it is rare. Consider how many cats you own and how many litter boxes there are to go around. Some cats are very particular about having their own box and if forced to share with another, will opt to find a new place to go. The general rule is one box per cat, though most cats will be content to share. There also exists cats who insist on having one box for urine and another for feces. Having a spare litter box around is a good tool to have to determine if this is the case for your cat. Most cats will not have to be re-trained once a new box becomes available. Whenever in doubt, schedule a vet appointment and purchase another litter box. All of our cats are neutered/spayed, but if your problem lies with an intact cat, some of these behaviors can be managed more easily if you have your cat fixed.
If you were unable to find the answer you were looking for, please contact us at: ToledoCats@gmail.com
